View Full Version : polyurethane (interior)
kylady
02-26-2003, 09:45 PM
Hi everyone!! Love the new board!
I have a question I hope someone can help me with.
We have our white pine logs clean and sanded. Now we need to choose a
polyurethane. Which is the best? We want non-yellowing(of-course) and we also need to know which poly will hold up in bathrooms and laundry closet. We want something in a satin finish.
Thanks in advance for any help!
Jim Marsh
02-27-2003, 07:16 PM
Kylady
One thought until some of the experts respond is to do a search in the old archives. eg. "interior finish", or "interior stain"
It might pass some time until you get your response.
I was under the impression that a polyurethane is not the best way to go for the interior.
Alot of the stain companies also can give you some good advice
over the phone. There are some good ones listed in the log home magazines.
Best of wishes
Tim Bullock
02-27-2003, 07:41 PM
kylady........Call Sansin.........they have some new interior products that look great.........really great and kind to logs.
Sjoerd Bos at Sansin is very helpful.
We've been talking a lot this week and his prices are competetive with other brands.
The number is 1-877-726-7461. He took my plan and told me exactly how much of each product I will need and spent a great deal of time explaining the different applications to achieve the desired look.
They sent me several samples, It was very easy to tell which ones I wanted after I put the samples on the wood species. Of course, I am a very visual person and a little color chip tells me nothing.
I have found Sjoerd to be much more knowledgable than anyone else on wood finishing.
kylady
02-28-2003, 02:07 PM
Hi all..thanks for the replies. We have decided against the poly for the interior. We are considering using Permachink's Lifeline for the interior. Does anyone have any experience with this stain? If so, would two coats of the Lifeline be enough protection or would I need to apply a top coat of something?
Also would the Lifeline Interior provide enough protection in high-humidity areas?
Thanks a bunch!!!
Tidemobile
02-28-2003, 05:10 PM
We have used lifeline on our homes for several years and have been extremely happy with the results! We are also impressed with the Sure Shine on our pine T&G floors, with two kids and an English bulldog the finish is still holding up strong. I would recommend two to three coats on the lifeline for the walls and ceilings.
Jeff Kyger
02-28-2003, 05:14 PM
KYLADY:
You have many more options on the interior than the exterior. Particularly in high humidity areas like kitchens and bathrooms, you can apply the Acrylic Gloss or Satin (clear) over the tinted stain. Or, it can be applied over untreated wood. It will definately keep the walls cleaner, and allow them to be cleaned much easier when they do get dusty. Certainly you can use the Lifeline stain without the Gloss/Satin topcoat as well...your choice.
Samples are always free. Let us know.
Jeff Kyger
Perma-Chink Systems
800-548-1231
kylady
03-03-2003, 04:10 PM
Thanks Tide and Jeff...
We ordered some samples from perma-chink for the stain and Acrylic satin. We will probably just go with a couple of coats of the acrylic satin for logs and all.
Thanks everyone for the info.!!!!!!
MikeS
03-03-2003, 06:10 PM
We've used Lifeline on our projects. It breathes well, which is a plus for those of our projects involving green log construction. Typically we use two coats on the logs, so as not to seal them against moisture movement, as an added precaution.
For your millwork, namely ceilings, walls, and trim; we find two coats of Lifeline is "blotchy".
As a result, we went away from this product, since three or four coats on the millwork is more costly for the homeowner paying a GC or painter to do the work.
I've been using "Stays Clear" and "Benjamin Moors", both water base, for the logs and walls/ceilings. Two coats works fine, and does not seal from moisture movement. For windows, I tend to go oil base if the owner has the added budget available. Otherwise we stay with the water base.
A little white paint in the first coat is prudent, to add pigment to the UV protection. Not all owners are willing to go this method, but it is a good practice.
kylady
03-04-2003, 06:11 PM
Hi all. Jeff (Perma-chink) I have another question for you. I received the lifeline samples. I wasn't completely satisfied with the color so I mixed some of the light honey(112) and some of the clear (stain...110) and liked the result. I assume it is ok to mix the stain to get a desired look? If so, I plan to use the mixed stain and then follow with the satin acrylic.
Thank goodness for this board....I would be lost without it!!!
Jon Fife
03-05-2003, 12:10 PM
Hello Mike Senty,
I was interested in the comment you made about the addition of white paint. Can you please explain this further??
Regards,
Jon Fife
Tennessee Wood Care
Jeff Kyger
03-06-2003, 11:13 AM
Lady:
No problem mixing the 110 Interior with the 112 Interior since the base is the same. At a 50/50 ratio mix, you should have a color close to between the two. I would NEVER recommend this for the exterior. Give the stain an hour or two to dry to the touch before applying the Acrylic Satin. A second coat of the Satin will give you a much more pronounced finsih. Let me know if you have any questions.
Jeff@permachink.com
Sandy Helms
03-10-2003, 08:25 AM
Two sprayed coats in my house 7 years ago and it still looks great.
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