treatment for green logs

[srhough]

We have just received green, pine logs, milled on three sides that we intend to build our home with.
We have received much conflicting advice about the care and preparation of these logs until they are ready to go up (sept "03). Do we treat them at all? Do we treat only the ends, or should we treat all four sides? If they should be treated, do we use a stain or an oil? If a stain should it be water or oil based? A few people have suggested that we use an oil(motor oil) as a protector against mildew and insects. Any advice will be greatly appreciated!
srhough

[w.g.clark]

there are ways of treating green logs besides motor oil which I would strongly suggest you do not do. borax in powder form will work on truly green logs and is very inexpensive to use. also there are other treatments available if the logs are not fresh cut. if you need more information you can email me at wgkjclark@aol.com and I will be happy to try and help you with the best way of treating. thanks w.g.

[Jeff Kyger]

Motor Oil? For your car.....certainly. But it would be awful thing to put on a home. I have no clue why anyone would suggest that...and the recommendation certainly didn't come from a log home manufacturer. None would support this. It sounds like something that was done in the 50's. On top of a flood of other reasons.....oils eventually attract bugs. You're probably (literally) better off using nothing.

People will continue to debate for years about what's better....water based stains or oil based stains. But on green logs (if they're truely "green") oils will be more difficult to deal with as the oils won't penetrate as much as they would on dry logs.

Jeff Kyger

[Tim Bullock]

We use Timber-Tec by Sansin........However, We have used straight diesel fuel in the past with good results........No it does not smell after a time as it is a hydrocarbon and evaporates..........

[MikeS]

We work with green logs a lot, along with dry. Storing green logs, especially through the summer, is a difficult problem. Our approach is to treat them regularly with a sap stain control product, and produce the building and get it shipped and under roof. Rain, sun, heat, and humidity are your enemies.

Since you will be storing your logs through the most difficult time of the year, my suggestion is to first spray them with a sap stain control product. Be prepared to do it regularly during the more humid times of the summer. Watch the logs closely for formation of tiny dark spots, the first sign of sap stain.

Since you are storing them for a long time, you should get them protected from the rain and sun. If this were my house, and the logs were delivered so early, I'd get them into a shed that is open and has air flow. You will need to sticker them, so air flows between the logs. Get them off the ground quite a bit too. Sticker and stack them in a way that you can re-apply your sap stain control product during this storage time.

If you choose to use a tarp, not a good option but better than nothing, make sure the tarp covers only the top of the stack, not the sides. Make sure the tarp does not lay directly on any of the logs. The tarp can easily restrict air flow, resulting in sap staining. The tarp is difficult to use for absolute rain protection, so the logs will get wet at times. These conditions, in a stacked pile of timbers, along with heat and humidity will promote sap stain.

I would not use motor oil. Oil becomes an additional nutrient source on your logs. Oils like linseed oil are typically carriers, for stains and finishes. You want to allow your logs to dry below the moisture level that allows sap stain pathogens to grow. After the first year, you are in the clear.

Assuming you purchased a milled package, talk to your supplier about twisting. The way wood works in a milled package, you can easily experience twisting during the storage time you are faced with. Get his suggestions, and ask them if they will replace any timbers that twist during this storage time. Ask your supplier if they will store your logs, or deliver them in new condition in September, when you need them, which is the preferred option.

[Tim Bullock]

Curious Mike but what are you using for sap stain control?? Does it have to be reapplied after a rain?? The diesel does work great but has to be redone and it stinks like crazy.............

[MikeS]

Tim

We use NP1 from Kop Coat. Its a butylcarbamate derivitive, a wood preservative product, and an ammonium chloride derivitive, a disinfectant and wood preservative. I just looked all this stuff up.

It's an EPA approved wood preservative for spray application and dip tanks, for logs and timbers. Dilutes with water, so you are not stuck with oil finishes after the logs are delivered. Very safe product for consumers, and a product that requires applicator eye protection, plus concentrate skin exposure protection.

Used it for years, with very good results, after lots of experimentation. It is penetrating, and lasts pretty well. Worst case, summer and rain, then sun and humidity, repeat and repeat; we apply every 3 weeks or so to the log inventory. Throughout normal summer cycles, we apply about every 4 to 6 weeks. Once logs are delivered and under roof, we're pretty much in control.

We have a very good location, on Lake Superior, which is normally quite cool all summer. Getting above 80 is very hot for us and rare, and our humidity is relatively low. Very good microclimate for midwest log construction, the "banana belt of Minnesota".

[Tim Bullock]

Thanks Mike!!!