It's been a long time since my last post, but we've been a bit busy working on the Log home at Otter's Run, VT every chance we get, while at the same time trying to eek out a meager living and maintain our two homes in today's economy. Not that easy a feat considering we're building our future retirement log home "out of pocket", with no financing. But still we're getting there, 12 years under construction as "weekend warriors", and maybe 95%+ complete, everything from the Home automation systems to the custom Radiata Pine raised panel Kitchen Cabinets and custom furniture I'm building (have Router, will travel) . Eventually, I'll post some pictures of our progress. It's been a long hard road we've travelled, but it's been worth it and for the most part very enjoyable, and dare I say, therapeutic. Oh yeah, by the way, did I mention that I also enjoy a nice glowing hot, sharply pointed stick, shoved directly into my left eye?
Right now, we're in the middle of installing nailed down, 3/4"x 3-1/4" prefinished Australian Cypress Flooring (www.Bellawood.com ) over a 1" dual layer (glued & screwed together) plywood subfloor that is floating on a layer of 3/8" Owens Quite Zone Acoustic Mat http://www2.owenscor...ou-floormat.asp
on top of the 2x8 T&G Loft decking attached to the Log beams/joists below the 2nd floor Loft and Catwalk (loft decking is the 1st floor ceiling). I do have to say it is a spectacular looking floor (see Photos attached).
*Edit, I having trouble attaching the pictures, I'll try again with a separate post.
At the same time we are now 98% done sanding and staining all the 2nd floors 4" Top & Bottom Log Railings (114 L/F), the 2-1/2" x 32" long spindles ( 250 ea.), and the 7" x 45" long Log Railing Posts (14 ea.). starting with 60 grit disc on a 5" hand held Random Orbital Sander, and moving on to 80 Grit, 100 Grit, 150 Grit and 220 Grit for every piece until we achieve a furniture quality sanded finish, and then it's 3 coats of Sansin's Clear Interior finish (2 coats of Gloss, and a final coat of Satin Finish, with additional 220 grit sanding between coats). This is the same process we've used on all the interior T&G Paneled Walls, T&G Ceilings, Cabinetry, Furniture, Log Walls, Beams, Trusses, and Purlins, with the addition of first sanding all the Log surfaces with a 7" Vari-speed sander with 50 Grit and then 80 Grit 7" sanding disks to remove the mill glaze, stains, sap leakage, and wood marring (dents, dings, splinters, and chips) before moving on to the 60 Grit 5" sander, then up to the 220 Grit finish. It's a very labor intensive and time consuming process, not to mention how it eats up the sanding discs, and they wonder why it's been 12 years building this home. But I do have to say the wood work is as smooth as a baby's butt and just glows with a beautiful depth and color. It really is worth the time and effort (now where'd I put that smoldering stick?).
Whew, that sure was a long winded preamble to the question I'm asking, (Geeze Gordon, GET TO THE POINT ALREADY!) As I said, we're laying the flooring and now need to start installing all that log railing to keep my 3 energetic, sock wearing, Grandkids from riding the "slip and slide" polished flooring over the Loft and Catwalk edge to the 1st floor below, thereby saving needless trips to the hospital and all that cost in medical treatment hardware. My question is (FINALLY!), what do other Log Home people and builders out there beyond the LED screen use to attach the Log Railing Posts to the flooring?
I've used commercially available Newel Post attaching hardware before for the “walk-out” basement Home Theater's Stair Railing with good success. The 16" 3008 Sure-Tite “hanger bolt” newel post system works well and provided a good stable post for the traditional stair railings. http://www.ljsmith.n...pe=9&product=17
I'm leaning toward this system for the Log railing post attachment in the Loft, together with a few lag bolts driven thru the Log post, hidden in the railing's tenon holes into the walls at the end of a railing run, as it would give a nice "hidden hardware" look to the Log railings & posts.
My exterior log railings on our wrap around Deck and Upper balconies were attached to the decking by using 2 - 1/2"x12" galvanized Lag Bolts and Washers per post driven up through the decking into each Log post from below. But as I said, the Loft and Catwalk decking is the ceiling for the 1st floor and I prefer not to have all those hex head bolts and washers showing on the 1st floor ceiling.
I’ve looked at the black metal “Post Pal” hardware at Schroeder but it’s really expensive for 14 - 8” units (close to a grand with shipping) http://www.loghelp.c...4-post-pal.aspx , and I feel the 6” Post Pal will be too small for the 7” posts and the 8” size will be a slight bit too large, and of course the hardware would no longer be hidden. Not that the black hardware would be that objectionable, it’s the cost that’s the real killer.
Unfortunately, due to the loft decking and floating floor thickness, the pre-made railing lengths and the position of the Log beam/joists below, it’s not possible to use a notched overhang and lag bolt through the post’s side method of attachment to the decking/flooring. Therefore, the Log posts need to be cut straight and lay fully flat on top of the finished flooring. The depth of the flooring also eliminates the use of the “Spring-Bolt” system of post attachment. http://www.spring-bolt.com/merchant2/
So, to the greater minds out there beyond the screen and to all those with past experience with installing Log railings & posts, any suggestions or recommendations on how to attach the Log posts to the floor/decking before I commit to the Sure-Tite “hanger bolt” type system? Any help would be, as always, greatly appreciated.
Many thanks to all for you for putting up with this long post, and my best wishes to you all!